Most Indian Salons Are Getting Nail Care Wrong: What You Should Be Doing for Your Nail Beds

Aishwarya Kapoor | Times Life Bureau | Jul 14, 2026, 07:32 IST
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Most Indian Salons Are Getting Nail Care Wrong: What You Should Be Doing for Your Nail Beds
Most Indian Salons Are Getting Nail Care Wrong: What You Should Be Doing for Your Nail Beds
Image credit : Times Life Bureau

Indian nail beds are thinner at the free edge and more prone to dehydration than most salon protocols account for. The standard manicure, cuticle cutting, acetone soaks, harsh buffing, strips the keratin layer and leaves nails weaker than before. Here is what the science of nail care actually recommends, and what you can do differently at home.

The Cuticle Problem Every Indian Salon Has

Walk into almost any nail salon in Mumbai, Delhi, or Bengaluru and the first thing a technician will do is clip your cuticles. It feels thorough. It looks clean. It is also the single most damaging thing you can do to a nail bed.
The cuticle is not dead skin waiting to be removed. It is a seal, a thin fold of keratin that closes the gap between your nail plate and the skin beneath it. Once that seal is cut, bacteria and fungi have direct access to the matrix, the living tissue where your nail actually grows. A 2012 study published in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology found that chronic cuticle removal is one of the leading non-fungal causes of paronychia, the painful infection that swells the skin around the nail. Indian women with oily skin types are particularly susceptible because the surrounding tissue stays moist, creating ideal conditions for bacterial entry once the seal is broken.
The correct approach: push cuticles back with a rubber-tipped tool after soaking, never cut them. If a salon insists on cutting, that is a reason to leave.

What Acetone Does to Indian Nail Beds

Acetone-based removers are the industry standard because they work fast. They dissolve gel, acrylic, and regular polish in under two minutes. They also strip the nail plate of its natural lipid layer, the thin film of oils that keeps the keratin matrix flexible rather than brittle.

Indian nail beds tend to be naturally lower in surface moisture than nail beds in colder, more humid climates. This is not a flaw; it is an adaptation. But it means acetone causes disproportionate damage. You will notice it as white chalky patches on the nail surface after removal, peeling at the free edge, and nails that snap rather than bend.
Non-acetone removers take longer, about five minutes for regular polish, but they preserve the lipid layer. For gel or acrylic removal, the correct method is filing down the top coat and soaking in acetone for the minimum time possible, then immediately applying a keratin-based nail treatment. Most salons skip that last step entirely.

Hydration Is the Step Indian Nail Care Skips

The nail plate is made of dead keratin cells, so it cannot hydrate itself. It absorbs moisture from the nail bed beneath it and from topical products applied directly to the surface. When that supply is interrupted, by acetone, by frequent hand-washing with harsh soap, by the dry air of air-conditioned offices, the plate becomes rigid and prone to breakage.
The most effective topical treatment for nail hydration is jojoba oil, which has a molecular structure close enough to the skin's own sebum that it penetrates rather than sitting on the surface. Almond oil, widely available in Indian pharmacies and grocery stores under brands like Dabur and Patanjali, works similarly. Apply either oil to the nail bed and the skin immediately around it twice daily. The application takes thirty seconds. Most people skip it because the results take three to four weeks to appear, which is one full nail growth cycle.

Biotin supplementation has a documented effect on nail thickness. A 1993 clinical trial published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology showed a 25 percent increase in nail plate thickness in patients taking 2.5 mg of biotin daily for six months. That study used a small sample, but the finding has been replicated in subsequent dermatological research. Consult a doctor before supplementing, biotin interferes with certain thyroid and cardiac lab tests at high doses.

The Buffing Mistake Salons Make Routinely

High-grit buffing pads, anything below 180 grit, remove actual layers of the nail plate in the name of creating a smooth surface for polish. Each layer removed is keratin you cannot get back until the nail grows out. Nail plates are only about 0.5 mm thick. Aggressive buffing across multiple manicure appointments thins them cumulatively.
A 240-grit buffer used lightly, in one direction, smooths ridges without removing plate material. Most salons use 100 or 120 grit because the result looks more dramatic immediately. The nail appears shinier and more uniform. It is also measurably thinner.
At home, skip buffing entirely unless you have a specific ridge you want to address. A good base coat does the same optical work without the structural cost.

Building a Nail Care Routine That Actually Holds

The routine does not need to be complicated. Remove polish with a non-acetone remover when possible. Push cuticles back after a warm soak, never cut. Apply a keratin-strengthening base coat before any colour. Massage jojoba or almond oil into the nail bed and surrounding skin every night before sleep. Wear gloves when washing dishes or using cleaning products; detergent is more dehydrating to nail beds than acetone over time because the exposure is longer and more frequent.
For salon visits: ask specifically for a gel manicure with soak-off removal done correctly, confirm the technician will not cut cuticles, and ask what grit buffer they use. A salon that cannot answer the last question is using whatever came in the supply kit.
The nail bed does not respond to care the way skin does, there is no overnight result. What you are doing when you hydrate, protect, and stop stripping is changing the conditions in which the next three millimetres of nail will grow. Those millimetres take about a month to appear. The care you do now is the nail you will have in four weeks.