Post-Inflammatory Pigmentation vs Melasma: How to Tell the Difference and Treat Each Correctly
Aishwarya Kapoor | Times Life Bureau | Sept 12, 2026, 07:35 IST
Post-Inflammatory Pigmentation vs Melasma: How to Tell the Difference and Treat Each Correctly
Image credit : Times Life Bureau
That dark patch on your cheek may not be melasma, and if it isn't, treating it like melasma will make it worse. Post-inflammatory pigmentation and melasma look almost identical on Indian skin, but they have completely different causes, different triggers, and need different treatment. Knowing which one you have is the only way to clear it.
Two conditions, one confusing patch
On deeper Indian skin tones, both conditions show up as brown to greyish-brown discolouration, which is why they get conflated so often. The confusion is not cosmetic vanity. It has treatment consequences.
How to tell them apart on Indian skin
Onset history matters too. PIH has a clear predecessor, the patient can usually point to the wound that caused it. Melasma often begins or worsens during pregnancy (the reason it was once called the mask of pregnancy), after starting oral contraceptives, or after prolonged sun exposure without adequate protection. A dermatologist will ask about both hormonal history and skin injury history before making a call.
Under a Wood's lamp, an ultraviolet light device used in clinical settings, epidermal PIH appears more defined and darker, while melasma can show both epidermal and dermal involvement. Dermal melasma, where the excess melanin has settled into deeper skin layers, is significantly harder to treat and does not respond well to surface-level products. This distinction alone changes the entire approach to treatment.
Why inflammation and hormones require different interventions
Melasma is a regulation problem. The melanocytes are not responding to injury; they are responding to oestrogen, progesterone, and UV radiation in a way that healthy melanocytes do not. This is why melasma can return within days of sun exposure even after successful treatment. Clearing the visible pigmentation does not fix the underlying sensitivity. A 2022 review published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology confirmed that melasma recurrence rates remain high even with combination therapy, because the trigger, hormonal sensitivity amplified by UV, is not eliminated by topical agents alone.
This is the core reason treating PIH with melasma protocols, or vice versa, produces poor results. Aggressive chemical peels used for melasma can worsen PIH by creating new inflammation. Gentle brightening serums adequate for mild PIH will barely touch dermal melasma.
What actually works for each
For melasma, the standard first-line treatment remains a combination of hydroquinone, a retinoid, and a mild topical corticosteroid, a formulation often called the Kligman formula. Tranexamic acid, available both topically and as an oral supplement under medical supervision, has shown strong results specifically for melasma in studies on Asian and South Asian skin. A 2020 study in the Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology found oral tranexamic acid at 250mg twice daily produced significant lightening in patients with recalcitrant melasma. Chemical peels, glycolic acid or salicylic acid at appropriate concentrations, can be used for melasma but require careful management to avoid triggering rebound inflammation, especially in Indian skin tones that are more prone to post-procedure PIH.
Sunscreen is not optional for either, but the reason differs
For melasma, sunscreen is closer to the actual treatment. UV exposure is one of the primary triggers that activates the hormonal-melanin pathway. Without daily, rigorous sunscreen use, no topical treatment will hold its results. Tinted sunscreens that also block visible light are preferred for melasma, because visible light, not just UV, has been shown to stimulate melanin production in people with the condition.
The patch on your skin carries its own history in its location, its edges, and when it appeared. Reading that history correctly, ideally with a dermatologist rather than a skincare algorithm, determines whether the next step forward is anti-inflammatory, hormonal, or purely protective.