Daulatabad Fort and Khuldabad: The Marathwada Stops Between Ajanta and Ellora Worth a Full Day Each
Aishwarya Kapoor | Times Life Bureau | Sept 12, 2026, 07:17 IST
Daulatabad Fort and Khuldabad: The Marathwada Stops Between Ajanta and Ellora Worth a Full Day Each
Image credit : Times Life Bureau
Most travellers treat Daulatabad and Khuldabad as quick photo stops on the Ajanta-Ellora circuit. That is a mistake. The Marathwada fort that once held an entire empire hostage and the Sufi town where Aurangzeb chose to be buried in an open grave deserve far more than a glance from a tour bus window.
The Fort That Broke a Sultan's Ambition
The approach to the citadel is one of the more disorienting experiences in Indian heritage tourism. You pass through concentric walls, a moat that was once filled with crocodiles, a pitch-dark spiral tunnel where guards would light fires to suffocate invaders, and a series of drawbridges. Carry a torch. The tunnel section is genuinely dark, and the Archaeological Survey of India does not always station guides at the entrance. Budget at least 90 minutes for the full climb, more if you stop at the Chini Mahal, the tower where Abul Hasan Tana Shah, the last king of Golconda, was imprisoned for 13 years.
The Chand Minar near the fort entrance is 30 metres tall and dates to the 14th century. It is less visited than Qutb Minar, structurally comparable, and you can walk right up to its base without a crowd. That alone is worth the detour from the main Ellora road.
Khuldabad : The Town That Chose Quietness
The dargah of Zainuddin Shirazi, a disciple of Nizamuddin Auliya, is the spiritual centre of the town. It draws pilgrims from across Maharashtra and beyond, particularly on Thursdays. The narrow lanes around it smell of attar and fresh flowers. If you arrive mid-morning on a weekday, you will have the dargah almost entirely to yourself.
Khuldabad also holds the dargah of Burhanuddin Gharib, another Chishti saint, and a relic said to be a hair from the Prophet's beard, the Dastar Khwan-e-Quds. The town is not set up for tourism in any commercial sense. There are no souvenir shops selling refrigerator magnets. That is the point.
How to Fit Both Into One Day
Drive to Khuldabad by noon. Lunch options in the town itself are limited to small dhabas near the dargah. The better move is to carry food or eat in Aurangabad before you leave, the city is 15 kilometres from Daulatabad and has no shortage of good Mughlai and Marathwada thalis. After lunch, spend the afternoon in Khuldabad's lanes. The pace slows there naturally.
Ellora is 30 kilometres from Khuldabad on the same road. If you are combining all three in one day, you will get perhaps two hours at Ellora, enough for Kailasa Temple (Cave 16) and one or two Buddhist caves, but not the full complex. The honest recommendation: give Ellora its own day. Ajanta, two hours north by road, needs another.
What the Standard Itinerary Gets Wrong
Daulatabad's military architecture is among the most sophisticated in medieval India. The tunnel defence system, the concentric moat design, the use of the rock itself as a wall, these are not decorative. They represent centuries of siege engineering refined by successive rulers: Yadavas, Khaljis, Tughluqs, Bahmanis, Nizams. Forty-five minutes gets you to the first gate.
Khuldabad is not a monument. It is a living town where Sufi practice has continued without interruption for 700 years. You cannot absorb that in the time it takes to photograph a grave.
The traveller who spends a full day across both stops will leave with a specific understanding of how the Deccan was governed, contested, and sanctified across a thousand years of history. That is a different experience from ticking two names off a heritage list.
The Marathwada region rewards slowness. Daulatabad and Khuldabad are not warm-up acts for Ellora. They are the argument that the plateau between the Sahyadris and the Godavari was one of the most consequential stretches of land in medieval India, and that most of the evidence for that claim is still standing, largely uncrowded, and open to anyone willing to arrive before the tour buses do.